Fall has returned. Perhaps too early for coq au vin, rindsgoulash and the like, but the ideal moment for roast chicken and alpine whites of some opulence and maturity.
2016 Domaine des Marnes Blanches Les Molates Savagnin - offers more stone fruits brightened with citrus and well integrated oak, finishing savory. Tensioned and mineral with poise and depth throughout.
2012 Dominique Lucas Vin de Allobroges Savagnin - hazier and more tawny in hue, with gamey aromas. Think wool sweater and duck fat, with honey and tangerine oil on the palate. A heady and powerful expression of Savagnin that feels at home with this hearty preparation for a Fall night dinner.
About that dinner: I take a spatchcocked chicken, salt it overnight in the fridge allowing time for the salt to penetrate and for the skin to crisp up, then saute chopped bacon, garlic, waxy potatoes, and caraway seeds with a pile of savoy cabbage until wilted, all in a large cast iron skillet or saute pan, placing the salted chicken on top, then roast until the breast is done, and the potatoes and cabbage are all braised in chicken and bacon drippings. Finish with some vinegar to balance the fat. Wash down with Savagnin.
- Saman Hosseini (aka Baguette Hunter)