by Saman Hosseini, AKA thebaguettehunter
I come back to Neil Young’s soundtrack for Jim Jarmusch’s Dead Man again and again, when feeling at times embittered, numb, and defeated, lost somewhere in between, yearning for a tranquil escape from quarantine. Neil Young’s continuous solo variations on a guitar, overlaid with recordings of a foaming up & backrush along a shoreline, and once interrupted by a solemn accordion interlude. Neil Young’s guitar invokes the dessert, while the accordion feels more alpine. Altogether atmospheric yet placeless.
Enter Alessandra Divella’s Blanc de Blancs, zero/zero Franciacorta, made from Chardonnay grown on limestone and clay soils from the 2015 harvest, fermented by indigenous yeast in cement tanks and rested in barrique before tirage and bottling, aged 32 months on the lees, and disgorged in January 2019. Racy and saline, yet generous, with a steady bead, and savory autolytic notes. Really a triumph; a wine I would enjoy alongside my favorite grower Champagnes. There is a tarnished beauty to this wine that matches Neil Young’s weathered and reverberant guitar, its salinity and bubbles recall the shoreline, and its mouthwatering acidity seems to penetrate through one’s murky headspace to revive the senses.
Escape may not be in the cards, but maybe find a shaded spot in the park, bring a freshly baked sourdough boule and a hunk of well ripened Tallegio; all the better with this Blanc de Blancs.
- Saman Housseini
WINE I'M DRINKING RIGHT NOW: Divella Blanc de Blancs, for its tarnished beauty and reviving effervescence
LISTENING TO: Neil Young’s Dead Man soundtrack, in a murky headspace from heatwave temperatures, yearning for a tranquil escape from quarantine