Collin Cooks and Sells Great Wine
Collin Wagner: Optimist, New York Sales for Vom Boden
Ahh, the end of August. Temperatures and daylight waning, fleeting moments of summer and wisps of autumn lurking. This time of year is a nostalgic one for me (normally), with the rhythm of life starting to change, preparing for back to school, start of a new sports season or, best yet, the impending grape harvest. It's also a time I find myself most reflective, most eager for change, with a pulse of energy in my step. The light is usually my first indicator of imminent change; the bright sun changing to orange-y yellow hues, nearly projecting the colors of the leaves and fall fruits...gourds, apples, grapes. With the coming cooler temperatures, why not drink some wines from further north, say cooler climate areas? Let the lite cool and prickle of fall wash over you:
Vetter Apfelcidre 2018: 2020 is a lot of things, but it's a year that I found myself drinking more and more cidre. Lower ABV, immensely joyful, a great apero for the day or for a break in other vinous drinks. This one comes from our guy in Franken, Stefan Vetter. Master of old vine Sylvaner from steep slopes and limestone/sandstone soils. His wines always have an extreme energy to them, a piercing ruggedness that carries through even in his cidre. This is a blend of all indigenous varieties that you nor I have ever heard of, made in the same style as Petillant Natural, bottled with zero sulfur and fermented totally dry.
Leon Boesch Edelzwicker : Cool minerals, green grasses, slight prickle, the breath of fresh air. This is Alsace. We all should be drinking more wines from this forgotten area of France. Northeastern, close to the German border (or in Germany, depending on the year). This estate's wines are a pure expression of the region, and a steal for the value they bring. This is Edelzwicker, a "Noble Blend" of whatever the vintage brings them, but usually Sylvaner, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Muscat, and Pinot Gris. A fine and easier around the edges wine that's good for any occasion and people it comes across. A perfect companion with trout, get-a-fishing!
Muscadet "La Pepie" 2019: We can't talk about minerality in wine and gloss over Muscadet (and Riesling, of course). It's incomprehensible that a wine of so little ABV and stuffing seems to be so dense of mineral, salt, and rocks. West along the Loire river, nearly at the mouth to the Atlantic you will find a symphony of shellfish and these little wines that seemingly defy gravity. Crack this with shellfish, summer vegetables, fish..anything coming off the barbecue!
Philip Lardot "der Hirt" 2018: Phil is a dear friend, who also happens to make incredible wines in the Mosel of Germany. "Der Hirt" is a very special wine sourced from vines planted in 1945 on a single post to vine trellising system that is classic and traditional of the region. The soil here is more red and iron sandstone filled slate, so while blue and grey slates (the more common of the region) give you a cooler fruit and aromatic profile, red gives you opulence and a spectrums of flavors more akin to fall. All the work is done by hand, winemaking is hands off, and malolactic fermentation is encouraged. Because Phil is doing things a bit differently, he's not able to label vineyard designations on the wines. Thus, you have an ode to the old Shepherd's trail that runs on the crest above the vineyards, Hirt meaning Shepherd in German.