As a natural wine lover, you're taught to hate Champagne. The vineyards have literal garbage in them, everything is blanketed in pesticides, there's no terroir, it's overpriced, it's manipulated in the cellar, it's not natural. That's all true. But there are a small and growing handful of vignerons in Champagne that are making some of the greatest natural wines in the world. There are few movements that are more thrilling. When it's done right, Champagne is singular. The bubbles speak for themselves.