One wine that haunted me for the rest of the trip was the 2018 'Don Giachino' Sparkling wine that they opened up for us before we departed. It's made from their oldest Jacquere vines, aged 24 months on the lees, and then another year in bottle before it's released. Whereas the '21 Bulles is fresh, jubilant, mineral, and thirst quenching, the '18 Don Giachino is regal, classy, vinous, and very long in the mouth. The bubbles were present, but more mellow, and there was a hint of herbs, nuts, and spice. It has the infamous 'Oeil de Perdrix' (eye of the partridge) salmon/coppery color, the french term occasionally used to describe a fine, aged champagne.
- Steven Plant