I feel the same way about Champagne that I do about Venice.
I think of it often, eager to spend lots of money on a flight to Marco Polo over somewhere new and novel. I crave it; a visceral reaction when I think of the decaying buildings, sarde in saor, the salt in the air, the labyrinth streets.
Then I remember that Venice is packed with tourists and shitty cafes and flooded with actual shit. That my idea of Venice is much more beautiful than its reality. It can never live up to my expectations. I kind of hate it.
Yet there I am, in my memory, staring up at the San Zaccaria altarpiece, in awe of the power of humanity's ability to create beauty. That's Charles Dufour's Le Haut de la Guignelle.
Charles Dufour is a young grower and winemaker, farming six certified organic hectares in Landreville in the Côtes des Bars region of the Aube. Coming from a family steeped in the winemaking traditions of this off the beaten track of a Champagne region, some of the vines were planted by his grandfather and are quite old. Charles favors working with natural yeasts for the fermentations of his wines and the wines are free of added sulphur.
-Williams Corner Wine