Principiano’s Barolo Serralunga has been on fire for a few years now, but this vintage crystallizes the house style: elegant natural wines with a watermark of traditional Barolo Serralunga terroir. 2016 was a grande annata in most of Barolo, and that’s also the case here. It’s a classic, cool vintage that highlights elegance. It reminds me of the 2010, but even more of that Kundera ‘Unbearable Lightness of Being.’ Grapes come from two vineyards in the Serralunga subzone, and co-ferment: 80% from the cru Boscareto vineyard, and 20% from the Lirano vineyard. Boscareto’s limestone soils give depth and minerality, while Lirano’s sandy soils give an added airiness and elegance to the fruit. Spontaneous fermentation in steel (a rarity in Barolo nowadays), with maceration on skins for 25-30 days; two years in large wood botti (from 1000 to 5000 liters); then one year in bottle until release. 40 mg/ l total SO2 was added only after fermentation, while the wine was racked in large botti, and right before being bottled.