To me, this wine is fireworks and shows, along with a wine like Hild’s “Zehnkommanull,” the staggering potential of the Obermosel and Elbling. This wine is razor sharp, crushed minerals, sweet tarts, aspirin, chalk, anything pulverized into a clean dust, candied lime zest, sea salt and more rocks. Dostert mostly whole-cluster pressed this wine but did “a little” skin contact and this is perfectly done – the wine has a very compact, dense core of gauze and glycerin, a miniature, porcelain structure that defines the wine without giving it any weight. The élevage too is near-perfect, the neutral wood offering the wine just the perfect amount of presence to flirt with ripeness, and then to pull back just to the line – this is a stunning and dangerous balance. I think this is a great, great wine and is likely what old timers think of when they think of Chablis.
This wine is sourced from 40-year-old vines that Dostert has worked with a lot to bring them to a good place.