The 2020 Steffensberg is the leanest of the wines, at least in alcohol, clocking in at a brisk 11.5%. There’s a subtle base of citrus, ripe lemon and into the sharper, more herbal orange oils. Of all the Grand Crus, the Steffensberg is the broadest – the soil here is a fine, weathered slate with more hummus, so it holds more water. The wine can have a certain power, a certain grip that isn’t quite sticky, but has a texture to it, even if the overall feel is tart and salty – tangy.
- Vom Boden