Durst’s Portugieser “P” is feathery and light-weight; even in youth there is a balance and finesse to the wine, a certain inherent elegance that feels not mature, but complex and layered. The nose is mysterious, earthen and faintly smoky, with perfumed highlights of violet and rose petals, suggesting a vocabulary similar to that of the great, more delicate wines of the Piedmont and Alto Piemonte. For all the satiny elegance, the palate has a compact, polite and stylish concentration, with sweet-floral inner-mouth aromatics. The tannic structure is present, even a touch rustic, yet present and integrated. I could go on – I love to write about this wine – but part of the pleasure here is the unexpected depth and profundity of this wine. It is not inexpensive, and worth every cent.