HAPPY HOLIDAYS! 10% OFF 12 BOTTLES OR MORE, ALL DAY EVERY DAY. FREE TASTINGS EVERY SUNDAY. HAPPY HOLIDAYS! 10% OFF 12 BOTTLES OR MORE, ALL DAY EVERY DAY. FREE TASTINGS EVERY SUNDAY.

Closerie du Pelan

Cotes de Bordeaux 2000

$72.00

Cotes de Bordeaux 2000

Closerie du Pelan

Cotes de Bordeaux 2000

$72.00

Back in 1984, a local named Régis Moro left his career as a painter and returned to his roots, purchasing a property called Vieux Château Champs de Mars which straddles the Côtes de Francs and Côtes de Castillon appellations.

Much has been made of Bordeaux’s wine crisis in recent years. The reasons behind the malaise are many, and too complex to fully explore here, but in effect: significantly more Bordeaux is produced per year than is consumed—a trend that has been charting for decades and which has come to a rolling boil as of late. This downturn has disproportionately affected the “value Bordeaux” sector—that ocean of wine sold as Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur, as well as those far-flung and little-understood appellations in the larger Côtes de Bordeaux—but its effects are felt nearly everywhere in the region…

Except, it would seem, with the Amoreau family. Owners of the legendary Château Le Puy for over 400 years, the Amoreaus stayed the course during Bordeaux’s shift in the late 20th century toward increased extraction, new oak, and technological interference, continuing as they always had to produce hauntingly pure wines from their biodynamic polyculture using a minimum of cellar interventions. Paradoxically, what perhaps felt old-fashioned in Robert Parker’s heyday eventually came to feel positively revolutionary, and while Le Puy has long had a devoted following at home, its export markets have blossomed as drinkers of a new stripe—hungry for wines of personality and naturalness—have had their minds blown by a style of Bordeaux they hadn’t even imagined possible.

Although the fortunes of many vignerons in this storied region are shrinking, the Amoreau family, alongside their visionary director of operations and co-owner Harold Langlais, have expanded their footprint in their corner of the Côtes de Bordeaux over the past decade. In 2012, they acquired Closerie Saint Roc—a property less than a kilometer from Le Puy with the same Asterie limestone bedrock—and today they produce several Bordeaux of riveting beauty there, all in the manner of Le Puy’s famous “Barthélémy,” vinified and bottled separately according to soil type.

- Rosenthal