Amaro Riserva 'St Hubertus'

From Punch:

First created by company founder Pietro Bordiga, the amaro’s historic recipe has remained unchanged since the distillery opened in 1888, still using foraged and organically grown alpine herbs and botanicals like licorice root, dandelion, masterwort, gentian, aloe and angelica. The amaro’s namesake, St. Hubertus, is the patron saint of hunters; the region’s native chamois (a goatlike animal) adorns the label, almost daring you to twist open the cap.

 “The flavor profile is a medley of licorice, dried tobacco leaf and savory herb—all these notes are laced with a light freshness of mint, which creates something truly memorable and signature in its style,” says Matt Chavez, bar manager of Ci Siamo in New York. “Its wave of rootsy bitterness clings to the palate long after the initial sip. It’s definitely not an entry-level amaro and is certainly for the more adventurous.”

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St. Hubertus is the patron saint of hunters, hence the chamois deer on the label of this Riserva amaro. (Chamois are found in the Piedmontese Alps where many of the botanicals grow.) Relatively high in alcohol and decisively bitter (8/10 on our Arbitrary Bitterness Scale), the classic alpine combination of mint followed by a hint of licorice is elaborated with a host of other botanicals including dried mushrooms, turmeric, dandelion root, masterwort, and others. This is a bold, classic alpine amaro that works perfectly as a traditional digestivo after a meal but is also excellent in cocktail combinations. First produced in the 1920’s.

As with all of Bordiga’s infusions, St. Hubertus is made of actual botanicals, some of them foraged wild in the mountains near the distillery. After harvest the botanicals are dried at altitude in a dark, ventilated room naturally. They are then infused individually (for ideal extraction) in alcohol in the distillery in Cuneo, then skillfully combined by the master distiller for a balanced aroma and flavor. Water and sugar are added; after resting for several weeks the amaro is filtered and bottled. Modern techniques such as centrifuging, ultrasound or the use of chemical solvents to speed up extraction are never employed. No purchased extracts are used. 

Distillery notes: imperatria and liquorice give the unmistakable taste and natural sweetness, the two gentians give bitterness, colomb gives a dry taste. White mastic mushrooms add umami and texture.

- Oliver McCrum Wines