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65% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 15% Vespolina
300 million years ago, a volcano created the raw material for seven tiny but geographically complex appellations collectively known as Alto Piemonte, an area about two hours North-northeast of Barolo and Barbaresco, literally at the ‘foot’ of the Alps. After years of abandon, this once great bastion of Italian wines is now being revitalized by a few key producers.
If you haven’t started exploring this area, you’re missing out on the glory of Nebbiolo when combined with local varieties, as well as a study in the area's unique soils. Cristiano Garella, native wünderkind, is one of the master-keys of the area. He’s helping wineries here appreciate and reinvest in the vineyards and cantine.
Colombera & Garella, as the name suggests, is his most intimate contribution among the many wineries he collaborates with. The Colombera part is Giacomo, Cristiano’s long-time friend, and Giacomo Colombera’s father, Carlo, who’s been growing grapes in the area since the early 1990s. Colombera & Garella's winery and vineyards in the Bramaterra and Lessona appellation.
Melascone was the local dialect name for Nebbiolo around Biella, but it was also short hand for referring to the everyday ‘vino rosso.’ So, even though this is Colombera & Garella’s base wine, it really has all the hallmarks of their great Bramaterra and Lessona bottlings, precise Nebbiolo aromatics, and that salty-minerality. They monitor the maceration closely each vintage to make sure the tannins aren’t too strong, and so the wine is ready to drink on release. The Croatina gives some extra fruit, and the Vespolina some extra spice. What a great wine to enjoy casually the greatness of Nebbiolo and Alto Piemonte terroir!
- PortoVino
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