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The Billard’s have 2.5 hectares of Aligoté planted in the village of La Rochepot. The vineyards are planted with “massale” selections, and the average age of the vines is 45 years, with the oldest parcel dating to 1947. The grapes are fermented in stainless steel and then matured in tank for 6 months “sur lie” before bottling. The resulting wine is both high-toned and sensual. Saint Aubin is a small commune that produces both white and red wines, and is located just behind the Montrachet vineyards. The soils are very chalky, and the slopes can be quite steep. The whites have recently received a great deal of attention and the reds, of which there are only 57 hectares planted, are slowly making their way into the pantheon of classic Côtes de Beaune.
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Domaine Billard has approximately 26 hectares of vineyards in different appellations throughout the Cotes de Beaune. Their largest holdings are in the Hautes Cotes de Beaune with other small plots located in Saint Aubin 1er Cru, Saint Romain, Auxey Duresses, Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru, Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, and Pommard.
When the domaine passed from father to son, Jérôme Billard brought a new philosophy with him. The farming practices changed to eliminate chemicals, rebalance the soils and follow the principles of organic farming. Jerome hired a specialist to work a few of their vineyards with a horse, and in 2019, after seeing the results, the Billards purchased their own horse, which enabled them to expand the number of vineyards they work without a tractor.
In contrast to his father, who sold his wine to the local cooperative, Jérôme developed a market for his wines, and estate bottles his entire production. Yields are kept low by severe pruning and the use of cover crops. The vines are harvested by hand and Jérôme likes to harvest on the “late side,” to give good concentration to his wines. Fermentations utilize indigenous yeasts and a modest amount of SO2 is added before bottling; 25mg/L for whites and 15mg/L for reds.
There are about 20 villages included in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation. These old villages, many of which are barely inhabited, are secluded in the hills and their vineyards are interspersed with woodlands and farms that grow a variety of crops. The Billard family home and winery are located in one of these, La Rochepot, a small village noted for its elaborate 13th century chateau which is set into a rocky hillside.
- Wine Traditions